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F-150 auto trans. issue Locks up in low/1st...

#1 User is offline   TommyZ 

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 01:39 AM

As weeks pass, I have been researching different scenarios with a few good transmission men about this problem I have with my pickup. Maybe someone here has some more input?

At first, I thought I lost the tranny. Then I was thinking transfer case. Now, as I have been able to plow with the truck yesterday (got another foot,) and drove it 4 miles to the store for gas, I got to see more of how it's acting.

It goes into a full lockdown when put in low...won't move, rpm's won't increase, just locks up. It goes fine in drive and reverse, although when on the road I noticed in drive, 2 wheel drive, at 35 mph it will begin to slow down until it gets down to about 25 again, then it's OK, unless I leave the OVERDRIVE OFF. It seems the transmission isn't shifting on the road; it starts off in 3rd, and doesn't run through it's upshift. In other words, with the overdrive button in normal OD, the tranny won't allow me to go over 35 mph, and will immediately begin to slow down/labor. Once I get down to about 25 mph, it returns to normal. With OD off, it takes off in 3rd and doesn't shift. I hope I'm explaining this without making it too difficult...

One of my buddies seems to think it's caused by an electronic solenoid located up inside the pan that when defective will cause the fluid to run 2 ways, thus causing it to "fight against itself" in first gear, as it is exactly doing. I'm not all too familiar with the insides of an automatic, so I'm at the mercy of other people's opinions right now.

This does make sense to me, as the Service Engine Soon light is on solid right now ever since this occured. Haven't had a chance to get it diag'd yet with a scanner... hopefully this weekend.

I'm open to more information men. Any advice would be appreciated. It's like Siberia here as I write this, wind whipping 50 mph, snow blowing/drifting, and I NEED my plow... sad.gif

Thanks again.
"If you're gonna be DUMB, you'd better be TOUGH"...
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#2 User is offline   kev2 

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 04:36 AM

sounds ike 4wd does not change the problem am I readng that right?

I thnk the problem wll be transmission then - a bi directonal transmsson scanner and a trans tech would be my recomendaton...

PS: cel is not on?
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#3 User is offline   TommyZ 

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 02:57 AM

QUOTE(kev2 @ Jan 29 2009, 08:36 AM)
sounds ike 4wd does not change the problem am I readng that right?

I thnk the problem wll be transmission then - a bi directonal transmsson scanner and a trans tech would be my recomendaton...

PS: cel is not on?
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No kev2, no matter in 2wd or 4wd, still the same issue. Only difference I found was keeping OD button in OFF position allowed me to travel past 35 mph without trans. going into a lockout or slowdown mode. CEL isn't on, SERVICE ENGINE SOON is what's appearing.

While I'm here, I've got another issue going on with my wife's '93 S-10.(We'll be walking pretty soon if this stuff keeps up...)

It's a 2wd S-10, 4.3L auto. Always ran mint until about a month ago. It suddenly stopped going to high idle when cold in the morning upon initial startup. Then, a slight skip developed, but only intermittantly. I changed the fuel filter, plugs and wires and cap last weekend, but still has the misfire and doesn't high idle. We got a code 43 from the dash diag. which a buddy claims is "an electronic spark signal to the computer that the computer is not seeing." Also has a code 13, which is "an open or shorted 0-2 sensor."

Would a bad 0-2 sensor cause what I just explained...not going to high idle, and an intermittant skip?

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#4 User is offline   kev2 

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 12:51 PM

OK this is a 4.3 CPI engne?

code 13 2 trouble trees shown

4.3 without 4l80e

4.3 with 4l80e


Sorry a BIG FU to VISTA for not addng attachments...

working this problem for you......
kevin
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#5 User is offline   kev2 

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 01:24 PM

Sorry for the work around to add these attachments....


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#6 User is offline   TommyZ 

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 10:29 PM

Thanks for the diagrams Kev2. I R&R'd the EGR valve Saturday, and replaced the distributor cap because I didn't have the right one when I changed wires and plugs 2 weekends ago. It seems to run almost perfectly now, except it still doesn't kick up to high idle when cold on startup. The CEL is still on, so I'm thinking I should change the 02 sensor next, as the EGR was really carboned up from running rich and loading up.

Where do I look to correct the problem of it not going onto high idle when cold now?
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#7 User is offline   kev2 

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 05:50 AM

Lets regroup...

Confirm if this is CPI njecton?

clear the codes operate vehcle and post any and all new codes....

PS: hopefully you used the CORRECT egr valve no spacers shims one size fts all?
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#8 User is offline   TommyZ 

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 01:52 AM

I'll have to wait till Saturday to get to it again kev2. As soon as I do I'll post the results.

I'm not familiar with what CPI injection is...it's a '93 with the early throttle body. Also, I didn't actually install a new EGR, I just cleaned the existing one of carbon and lubed it.

The wife says it runs a LOT better than before, but still ocassionally spits or sputters at take off from a light, stop, etc. then clears right up.

Thanks.
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#9 User is offline   kev2 

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 03:19 PM

we like throttle body inj.... easy to work on... biggrin.gif
should be a single wire 02 sensor yes?
carbon build up in 4.3 is a common problem, sometmes wll prevent egr from seating.....there is an aftermarket egr gasket with a screen to deal with that

could her prodlem be bad fuel??
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#10 User is offline   TommyZ 

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Posted 06 February 2009 - 02:22 AM

I'm a little embarrased to admit I've yet to slide underneath this truck to see if it's a 1 or 2 wire O2 sensor...Saturday is the day of reckoning though.

Fuel isn't the problem kev2. I'm thinking it's the O2 or possibly a bad knock sensor? Make sense to you?
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#11 User is offline   TommyZ 

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Posted 09 February 2009 - 12:54 AM

OK kev2...here's the results of my efforts on Sunday (supposedly my day of rest... dry.gif ) with working on the better half's S-10.

My brother-in-law is a fairly decent GM tech although he's been out of it for 10 years due to a better opportunity working for the railroad.

Him and I got working on it and discovered the distributor shaft was sloppy and the bushing was shot. It was binding and hitting the pickup, and as he said that controls not only ignition timing, but injector timing as well. A trip to Advanced Auto, $105.98 and now it runs as it did when driven off the lot in '93.

Everthing else I did was definitely due anyways; a good tune up, filters and misc. items were replaced, so now the mystery is solved.

Now all I need to do is figure out my original post in this thread...why my '02 F-150 transmission will only go in drive and reverse and goes into lockout in LOW... then all my vehicular troubles would be over. tongue.gif

Thanks for all the help again.

Tommy Z.
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