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ac not working
#1
Posted 06 June 2008 - 10:08 AM
HI guys, i needed my ac recharged it had R12 in it so the repair shop changed it over to R134. the next summer about 5 months later it would not cool so they recharged it and put some dye in it. 3 months later it stopped cooling. when i was under the hood i heard a whisling sound and found the change over schrader valve (i think it is called)was leaking, (at this time the compresser was kicking on and off) from lack of freon i think. any way i took it back to the repair shop and told them about the valve, and left the car there. when i went back they told me the compresser had dye on it and was leaking. so that was that.so today (3 months later) i was going to see if i can change the compresser and there was oil dirt and grease all over the compresser and i could not find any dye anywere. but i checked the schrader valve again and it had air pressure in it so i took my tire gauge and it shot past 60 psi. SO IF I HAD A LEAK WOULD THERE BE OVER 60 PSI OF PRESSURE IN THE LINES.
#2
Posted 06 June 2008 - 10:20 AM
Sorry Hardtimes:
But, Safty-yours - enviormental concerns (read $$$) , knowledge and special tools needed*- I would recommend you leave this to a professional..
*At the least, An EPA 608 certificate. refridgerent gauges, recovery equiptment for the gas, vacuum pump, system flush capability, etc
But, Safty-yours - enviormental concerns (read $$$) , knowledge and special tools needed*- I would recommend you leave this to a professional..
*At the least, An EPA 608 certificate. refridgerent gauges, recovery equiptment for the gas, vacuum pump, system flush capability, etc
#3
Posted 06 June 2008 - 01:38 PM
Oil on the compreeor is a sign of there being a leak, as far as seeing the dye you would need an ultra-violet light. Can't be seen with the naked eye. If the compressor is not cycling and the A/C is cooling then you probably have a slow leak. With all the regulations on letting the freon loose in the air it should be evacuated of the freon by an air condition shop before you change out the compressor as Kev says leave it to the professionals.
Smoke

"GOD, GUNS, AND GUTS MADE AMERICA, LETS KEEP ALL THREE"
A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life." That is Honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it. ~ Author Unknown ~

"GOD, GUNS, AND GUTS MADE AMERICA, LETS KEEP ALL THREE"
A veteran is someone who, at one point in his/her life, wrote a blank check made payable to "The United States of America", for an amount of "up to and including my life." That is Honor, and there are way too many people in this country who no longer understand it. ~ Author Unknown ~
#4
Posted 06 June 2008 - 03:19 PM
NO ITS MOTOR OIL ON THE COMPRESSER, BUT WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IS IF IT HAD A LEAK IN IT FOR 5 MONTHS WOULD IT STILL HAVE OVER 60 LBS OF AIR IN IT. NO IT IS NOT CYCLING IT IS KICKING ON THEN OFF, AND NO IT IS NOT COOLING IT IS BLOWING HOT. I'am trying to figger out if i sould take it back to this guy or find some one eles.this is why i need to know if it has a leak why does it have 60 lbs of air pressure in it.
This post has been edited by hardtimes: 06 June 2008 - 03:29 PM
#5
Posted 06 June 2008 - 03:35 PM
Rule of thumb.......pressure in system should be close to ambient temp of air, on a cold vehicle...so if it's 60F outside, pressure should be about 60 psi.......
Doesn't mean there is enough refrigerent in the system, just that you have a "static" pressure....it's enough to start the compressor, but if it is low on refrigerent, then the compressor will short cycle, and then may be disabled by the PCM....
Doesn't mean there is enough refrigerent in the system, just that you have a "static" pressure....it's enough to start the compressor, but if it is low on refrigerent, then the compressor will short cycle, and then may be disabled by the PCM....
"What we have heah, is failure, to communicate"
#8
Posted 06 June 2008 - 07:11 PM
ok ok...turn off caps lock...we dont like yelling....sometimes part of that pressure in the system is made up of moisture and vapour as well, so, just because it read 60 psi, doesnt mean that it was all refrigerant..as well, a tire pressure gauge is not calibrated to read R134..let along any thing other than air...releasing refrigerant into the atmosphere is a no no in most places..as well it can burn your skin if not handled carefully...
i can fix broken, but i cant fix stupid...
#9
Posted 07 June 2008 - 03:08 AM
hardtimes,
My colleagues have stated all the facts on this issue. Anything I add would be repetitious. However, the next time you encounter an R-12 vehicle click on the link below.
http://autorefrigera...com/co00033.htm
My colleagues have stated all the facts on this issue. Anything I add would be repetitious. However, the next time you encounter an R-12 vehicle click on the link below.
http://autorefrigera...com/co00033.htm
SMALL TOWN BOY
BORN IN THE U.S.A.
AUTO MECHANICS IS NOT A HOBBY. A BIG SET OF TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE THAT COULD FILL A THIMBLE IS A DANGEROUS COMBINATION.
BORN IN THE U.S.A.
AUTO MECHANICS IS NOT A HOBBY. A BIG SET OF TOOLS AND KNOWLEDGE THAT COULD FILL A THIMBLE IS A DANGEROUS COMBINATION.
#10
Posted 07 June 2008 - 04:47 AM
ONE MORE TIME....I answered your question.....yes, you can have a STATIC pressure of 60 psi, and still have a leak! This would be verified by having a low side gage on the system, and watching the pressure quickly drop below the cut off point, causing the compressor to shut off or short cycle....
Also, "2000" is correct...you could also have air in there, mixed with regrigerant......air/moisture can cause corrosion problems in the system....
Also, "2000" is correct...you could also have air in there, mixed with regrigerant......air/moisture can cause corrosion problems in the system....
"What we have heah, is failure, to communicate"
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